Auto-ignition not clicking: is it the battery or the module?
Silence when you turn the knob. A thirty-second test tells you whether it is a battery you can change or an ignition module a technician should.
Auto-ignition stoves light from a spark, and the spark comes from either a battery or the mains. When it goes quiet, the fault is one of three things, and the first is a five-minute fix.
Battery ignition
Most standalone gas stoves use a single large battery in a holder under the front edge or at the back. When it weakens, the click gets slower and then stops. Replace the battery — usually a D or AA size, check yours — and if the click returns, that was it.
Mains ignition
Built-in hobs and some stoves plug into a socket. No click at all: check the plug and the socket first. A click on some burners but not others: the spark plug at the silent burner is dirty or the wire has come off.
The test
- No click on any burner, battery type: replace the battery
- No click on any burner, mains type: check the plug; if fine, the module
- Click on some burners only: the individual electrode — clean it gently with a dry cloth, check its wire
- Click but no spark visible: electrode cracked or too far from the burner
- Spark but no flame: gas is not arriving — a different problem entirely
If the ignition clicks continuously without stopping, unplug it or remove the battery. A stuck module can overheat, and the constant sparking is a problem if gas ever leaks.
What a technician replaces
Electrodes and the module are both standard parts. Either is a short visit. If the battery holder itself has corroded, that is a small fix too.
Want this done?
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